Post by speakertom on Jul 12, 2018 19:21:19 GMT -5
Depends. When trying to remove solder from an eyelet or hole the sucker works better. When cleaning up a pad on a board or when you want to get to the very last drop of solder the wick works better. You really need both. After a while you will get a feeling for which you should use and sometimes both.
To change the direction of the conversation - but in keeping with the Amp Camp Amp discussion - what are the thoughts concerning the speakers that will be used with them? I have what I think to be some fine speakers (Magnepan, KEF, Totem) but none are probably sensitive enough to be driven adequately by the ACAs even in bridged mode. For some reason I really can't explain, I am lately intrigued by open baffle speakers (some perversion of my proclivity for planars?) and especially by the notion of building same. What are others thinking about in terms of speakers for the ACA?
System 1: VPI Prime/Ortofon Quintet Black; Technics SL1200 MkII/SME Type II Improved/Grace F9//Soundsmith Ruby OCL Dual 1219/Shure Type III Improved/JICO neoSAS; AVA Vision; Bluesound Node2; Oppo BDP 103; Rogue RP-5; Bryston 4BSST2; Sumiko S.9; Magneplanar 3.7i System 2: Vinyl Nirvana-modified Thorens TD125 MkII/SME M2-9/Soundsmith Ruby Elliptical Ortofon X-3; Vinyl Nirvana-modifed Thorens TD160 Super/SME M2-9/Ortofon Quintet Black; ARC LS28; Parasound Halo A21; REL T-9; Magneplanar 1.7i
I received my chassis from Italy this week. I think there are still two more parts shipments to complete all parts for the kit. I was impressed by the high end worthy metal work. And, I betray my age when I say I remember tissue paper weight airmail stationary, but it blows me away that it only takes four days for FedEx to deliver from the manufacturer in Italy to my doorstep in NoVA.
Just a quick update to report that I have successfully built the first of two Amp Kits I ordered and it is running nicely and playing music!
The 1.6 kit instructions are now online and are very good with good pictures and some videos as well. I found populating the PCBs to be very straight forward. For me, the wiring was the more challenging part but with all the good pictures it went very well. You may want to break up your build into two parts by populating the PCBS first and then do the wiring and assembly in another session.
I did find what I think is some incorrect text for the back panel wiring even though the pictures were correct. When in doubt always refer to the pictures and you will be fine. I also wish they would specify actual lengths of wire for specific hookups. I had to redo some wires related to the front panel switch and power (red wires) because I ran out of length to get everything hooked up. Not a big deal but having exact measurements would be helpful here.
All in all I am very pleased with the result and can't wait to get the other kit done so I can have even more power.
I will bring the amp to the next meeting for people to admire. Here are some pics of my build.
PCB populated and attached to heat sink Back panel wiring competed One channel PCB connected to back panel